The center piece of the 2023 Holidays is our train journey to New Orleans. Unlike Proust's novel, it was not a case of the past recaptured. There was certainly nostalgia and longtime friendship involved. Yet, I felt New Orleans was somehow diminished. Perhaps things that have impressed me for decades no longer sparkle so brightly. Perhaps I am diminished. The numerous pleasures and revelations of relationships and variations on the menage-a-trois I experienced in New Orleans are only dreamlike now, very fond memories and nothing more. Well, what did I expect? Only the Rémoulade Shrimp Darryl had at Galatoire's, which he shared with me, had the savor I recall so vividly.
Our stay in the lovely, eccentric, timeless Parkview Hotel on Audubon Park was a joy. Remind me, if I'm ever there again, to stay in room 20 with its grand view of the park and its ample balcony. Our second floor room was fine, especially with the jacuzzi. It too had a balcony on which I managed to sit and read. The hotel lobby with its Peacock Bar, and a gorgeous Christmas tree, also with peacock ornaments, was a delight. We all imbibed the free cream sherry always replenished with fine crystal sherry glasses. The breakfasts were fairly good and certainly adequate, far better than breakfasts we paid for in the French Quarter.
Audubon Park gave us walks and 500+ ducks to watch. Swans and white egrets also appeared in this sanctuary. Walking paths and the bridge I remembered enhanced our strolls. Tulane brought back memories of my first philosophy teaching experience and my defense of my doctoral dissertation. The houses around Tulane and along St. Charles Ave glowed in their rich grandeur.
New Orleans provided plenty of renewed friendship: Wolfgang and Sebastian, Maggie and Jocelin, and Katie, our ever gracious hostess. We rode the street car to the Quarter, dined at Frankie and Johnny's, The Napoleon House. With Katie we dined at Commander's, Antoine's, and Galatoire's, all attended by hordes of diners and wait staff. The food was good, impressive, and diminished from my memory of times past.
One tourist event stands out from the rest: our ride on the Natchez Riverboat with its highly enjoyable jazz band. We also heard a great jazz band at the Spotted Cat on Frenchmen Street on one rainy night. Loved the crowd there. And at the Rock and Bowl where we played an embarrassing game before hearing the rousing performance. All but Sebastian danced. Our holiday fun was followed by delicious Chinese cuisine at the Five Happiness.
In the French Quarter, Darryl and I had a nice room with a balcony overlooking St. Ann St. at the Place D'Armes. 5 days at the Parkview and five there. Noisy but fun, I'd say.
For all the food, the fun, the music, and the activity, I must say news trickled in from sources other than TV (where Darryl and I watched TCM and Judy Garland or Cary Grant). Even on holiday in New Orleans, the planet's destruction by climate change and corrupt politics cannot be ignored. The awareness of disaster grows; there is a sense of anxiety everywhere. Even my optimistic friends, like Barbie in the movie of her name, are forced to face the real world, instead of their imagined fantasy world.
